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Good Breeder vs Bad Breeder

Note from Webmaster: Just because a breeder doesn't meet every criteria found on this chart doesn't mean they are not a good breeder. There are a number of us, for example, who will not have prospective puppy buyers to our homes due to the safety risks it poses to our families and our dogs.  Sadly several AKK have been stolen from their owners recently and none of us want to go through that. This comparison list is here to help you make informed choices when choosing a breeder and to help you know what questions to ask. It us up to you to decide if the things a breeder does or doesn't do is a deal breaker for you.

Traits of:

Responsible Or Good Breeders


Traits of Bad Breeders:

Backyard Breeders, Wholesalers to Pet Store and Puppy Millers (big and small)

Really "Into" Dogs And Dog events: (shows, training, clubs, etc.)
Not "into" dogs (breeds the "pets" they have around the house)

Belongs to dog clubs and organizations


Is not involved in the "dog world"

Proves quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, hunting trials, protection, herding, and tracking. The best breeders title their stock on "both" ends. Working titles and conformation titles.


Quality of dogs is almost always substandard.

The Bad Breeder does not test his dogs in shows or trials. The Bad Breeder will express disdain for organized canine events. Yet, the Bad Breeder will go on and on about his 'rare' breed: white Dobermans, The chocolate Dane, The long-haired Whippet, white Boxers, the Dudley Lab, the long-haired Rottie, the expensive -Poo crossbred, Royal, Giant, Super-sized, or Teacup anything.

Pups' pedigrees are filled with dogs who have obtained show titles/working certificates; never breeds dogs without "papers" from a major kennel club such as the AKC, the UKC, or the CKC.


Pedigrees mostly a list of pets bred by backyard breeders; pups may not even have "papers"; may be mongrels.

(XYZ breed + poodle.)

Supports rescue groups; knows his actions inevitably play some part in pet overpopulation and euthanasia


Honestly believes that because he places/sells all his pups, he does not contribute in any way to the needless slaughter of millions of dogs per year in shelters

Knowledgeable in every facet of breed, including that of health issues/defects; researches genetics when choosing mates


Not particularly educated about breed, often not aware of his own breed's genetic defects; does not consider mate's genetics

Knowledgeable about house training, training, socializing, breeding, health; constantly reads dog-related materials


Has own ideas which may not coincide with professionals' opinions; won't bother to read any of the hundreds of dog books available.

Can and will help and educate puppy buyers regarding these issues. Encourages you to keep and touch and not hesitate to contact them if there is a question or problem.


Says "Goodbye" and "Good luck"

Willing to give you his references


Has no references

Knows his puppies' ancestry


Knows nothing about the other dogs on puppies' pedigrees

Follows up on puppies' well-being; collects health information affecting his dogs


Does not concern himself with the puppies' well-being or how puppies' health affects his breeding "plan"

Breeds to improve his own dogs, his bloodlines and the breed


Breeds just to breed or make money or to see his "great dog" procreate.

Rarely breeds. Does not use dog breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity


Breeds regularly for money if puppy mill; or if for ego, breeds once in awhile.

Rarely repeats a breeding


Often repeats breedings, mainly those that are cheap and convenient.

Breeds only dogs which meet breed standard


Dogs used for breeding rarely meet breed standard

Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments


Breeds shy/aggressive dogs with poor temperaments

Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times.


Breeds dogs at almost any age, and any number of times.

Mate choice could be anywhere in the country (almost never breeds his own males to his own females)


Mate choice is that which is convenient, cheap, local.

(very often owns both sire and dam, dogs may even be brother and sister or parent and offspring)

Does all genetic testing and will provide proof.

Does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects. (*This does not apply to Factor VII)


Does no genetic testing; ignorantly breeds defective animals or those which are carriers, thus, perpetuating disease in breed

Puppies are sold from waiting list created before the breeding even takes place. Will NEVER sell puppies through A pet store, A puppy broker, A raffle, As a prize, A charity event, Or Retail outlet.


Puppies are sold after birth in the local newspaper, in a first-come, first-served manner, or the puppies are wholesaled to pet stores, to a puppy broker, or another type of retail outlet.

Pet-quality pups generally cost $500-600+,come with pedigrees from a known and respected canine club, such as the American Kennel Club, United Kennel Club or Canadian Kennel Club.


All pups are pet-quality and are relatively cheap, usually $200-$400. There are some retail outlets that sell expensive, mixed-breed, non-shedding mutts, often called "yuppie-puppies", such as cocker-poos, schnickerdoodles, shocker-poos, labradoodles (not to be confused with the ones bred in Australia for the handicapped), goldendoodles, peke-a-poos, lhasapoos and so on, for up to $2,000.

Puppies are sold with at least a 1 year health guarantee


Puppies are sold with no guarantee

Puppies are sold with contracts


No contracts; does not care what you do with puppies

Requires pups back if new homes don't work out


Says "Find them good homes"

Dogs on property are friendly, socialized, trained


Dogs on property may be aggressive or shy, and untrained

Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for; Dogs are groomed, exercised, healthy, happy.


Puppy mills are overloaded, "warehoused" dogs are not groomed or exercised, don't look healthy or happy.

Will show you pups' parents if available, or if not, will have pictures.


Might have to "lock up" pups' aggressive or shy parents

(dogs that should never have been bred)

Raises puppies indoors, in the house with the human family. The pups should be right in the middle of a loving home.


Raises puppies outdoors Or in a garage Or in a basement. Or in a kennel, isolated from the family.

Breeder stays home, up to 3 months, to care for puppies.


Dam and pups are alone for long hours, in a kennel, crate or a x-pen. Usually are forced to play, eat, sit, sleep in their own excrement. This means that these puppies will be hard or even impossible to house train.

Feeds only premium dog food


Feeds cheap, grocery store dog food

Visitors remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of deadly puppy killing disease.


Has no understanding and takes no precautions to prevent puppy-killer diseases.

Keeps pups with mom and litter a minimum of 49 days to ensure sibling socialization and important lessons from pups' mother that can minimize temperament problems in the future.


Doesn't know or care that allowing a puppy to leave the litter early, such as 5 or 6 weeks of age, can cause lifelong temperament problems or that by allowing a puppy to stay too long can hurt bonding with humans.

Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various noises, children and other animals before sending them to new homes. A good breeder will crate train, house train, and obedience train the puppies of the litter. so that the new owner, YOU, will have a pleasant experience when you get your new puppy home.


Does not understand or want to be troubled with any kind of training; just tries to keep puppies quiet and contained until sold

Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities and lifestyles.


Knows nothing about puppy-testing or matching puppies with buyers; allows buyers to pick the "cutest" one

Can honestly evaluate pups' quality


Says all pups are high quality

Never sells to "impulse" buyers


Is not concerned about buyers being prepared for pups

Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice.


Always ready and extremely willing to sell two pups from the same litter at the same time. Would consider this killing two birds with one sale.

Interviews prospective buyers, checks home and references, refuses to sell to substandard homes.


Sells first-come, first-served to whomever has the cash; does not find out which homes are substandard.

Wants to meet whole family; won't sell if children are abusive.


Does not consider anything besides making sure the check clears.

Sells only to buyers with disposable income.


Is not concerned whether or not buyers can afford to properly care for pups

Waits for buyers who offer lifelong, loving homes.


Does not reject high-risk buyers: Renters, young adults, people who want to purchase a puppy for another person as a gift, families with very young kids, people who want a dog for superficial reasons: the popular "yuppie-puppie", type of coat, color of coat or looks alone, ignorant about breed, or people who plan on keeping the dog outdoors year around.

Understands dogs are "pack" animals; sells pets to buyers who want to make pup an indoor dog and are willing to spend the time and energy to make the dog a healthy, happy part of the family. Will require proof that the dog has completed training classes as part of contract.


Doesn't care if pups live as outdoor dogs or chained dogs, doomed to being confused, scared, stressed, unhappy, anxious, isolated, and lonely. Totally and completely separated from the human "pack" In other words, eternal damnation in DOGGIE HELL.

Sells only to buyers who make pup's safety a priority.


Does not consider pups' best interests.

Encourages or requires buyers to spay/neuter pet-quality pups.


Encourages buyers to breed, regardless of the quality of the puppy.

Encourages buyers to train pups as early as possible, which is often at 8-9 weeks of age; refers to good trainer or/and a good puppy class.


Shows no concern for pups after sale; Does not discuss the importance of training and socialization as important tools needed to help the puppy to grow up safe and sane.

Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention, socialization exercise and obedience training.


Does not provide even his own dogs with enough time, training, medical care, attention, exercise or socialization.




Responsible

Breeders

Improve

the Breed


Backyard

Breeders

Damage

the Breed




REMEMBER,

WHEN IN DOUBT-

DON'T BUY THE PUPPY!

LISTEN TO YOUR GUT.

IF A BREEDER DOESN'T SOUND RIGHT,

IF THE DOGS DON'T LOOK RIGHT

IF THE KENNEL/HOUSE DOESN'T FEEL RIGHT

RUN…

DON'T WALK,

OUT THE DOOR!

TAKE YOUR MONEY WITH YOU.

(*Note: This chart was not written by me and so far I have been unable to track down the original author. The chart remains unchanged by me except where noted with a *)